PAINTING TIPS:

Estimating the paint you'll need:

To estimate the amount of paint you will need for a particular job, you need to know the square footage of the area you are painting and then divide that number by the coverage area for the paint you'll be using. This information should be available on the side of the paint can.

The formula is 2 x ( W + L ) x H + ( W x L ); whereas W=width, L=Length and H=Height.

For example if you have a room that measures 9' x 12' with an 8' high ceiling, the formula would be; 2 x ( 9 + 12 ) x 8 + ( 9 x 12 .) Exclude the last part "+ ( 9 x 12)" if you are not painting the ceiling. Don't worry about window or door space since you will use the extra paint from those areas for touchups. Use the same formula to figure out the closet space and add that to the room footage. The numbers confirm the total area to be painted is 444' (square) feet. Now divide this amount by the coverage area printed on the side of the can.

To continue with our example: (side of paint can confirms coverage of 400' (coverage area) feet per gallon (or per 4 litres,) you will need approximately 1 gallon of paint for each coat of paint you plan on applying. If not sure about the number of coats you'll need, start with one gallon and then you will have a better idea if you need another gallon. In case the surface is less than one foot wide, figure in linear feet and convert it to square feet.

If you are painting the ceiling a different color than the walls, you'll need to buy a spare gallon just for the ceiling. If such is the case, remember to deduct the ceiling area from the total to determine the paint required for the walls. Also remember, it is normal to have paint leftover after any paint job. Rarely does any painter buy the exact amount of paint for the exact area to be painted.

If you are perplexed in trying to read/use this formula to figure out the paint you'll need or if you want to confirm your calculations, you can use our paint estimate calculator to do so.

Testing Painted Surfaces:
You can easily determine what kind of paint is on an existing wall by rubbing the surface with rubbing alcohol. Latex base paints will dissolve easily: you can repaint with oil (alkyd) OR latex based paint. Alkyd base paints will not dissolve: you must use oil paint to repaint unless a coat of 'conversion paint is first applied. For more information on conversion paint see your local paint dealer.

Textured Ceilings:
Textured ceilings are often sprayed without first priming the surface which makes the job of painting later much more difficult and messy. Because texture is a water based mixture, painting it with a latex paint will reactivate it and loosen it, causing it to spray loose stiple all over the walls, windows, floors and arms while leaving overlap roller marks on the ceiling. That is a potential nigthmare for anyone experienced in painting or not. Textured ceilings can be painted however, use a brush, thick 'ringed' foam roller, or sprayer when applying acrylic latex. You can also use an alkyd based paint to avoid much of the difficulties associated with repainting these types of ceilings.

An alkyd based flat paint will soak through the texture and into the underlying surface without loosening it while causing minimal overspray. This solution bonds the paint to the surface without reactivating it like a latex base paint will. When rolling the paint on the ceiling, roll from one end of the ceiling to the other without stopping. Rolling back over wet texture (with a latex based paint) will pull it off and end up on all over the walls. Alkyd (oil) paint circumvents this problem quite nicely. In either case, wait 24 hours if a second coat is necessary.

Water Stains on Textured Ceilings:
Here, you'll need to prime the stain with a stain blocking primer before painting. but before going that route try this: Put straight bleach into a spray bottle (like the kind you might use for plant food,) and spray the stained area with the bleach. Let it dry overnight and check it the next day. If the stain seems to have diminished but not quite disappeared, try a second application and wait it out. This could save you the burden of having to repaint the whole ceiling as this often takes water stains out.

Tools:
When using brushes to paint alkyd (oil) based paints use a china bristle brush and for latex paints use a nylon or combination nylon/polyester. The combination nylon/polyester lasts longer than 100% nylon and gives a better finish as well. Never use china or natural bristle brush for latex unless you have no further use for the brush afterwards since this will indeed render the brush useless, although they do make a good duster, albeit expensive. A good quality brush won't have bristles falling out while it is in use. Give the bristles of the brush a good tug before using it to see if they fall out. If they do it is probably a poorly constructed brush.

The surface being painted will dictate what size of brush you will need. Brushes generally come in sizes of 1" to 4," available in increments of half an inch. Smaller brushes are ideal for trim, windows, doors, and shutters, while a large 4" brush would be ideal for exterior siding. We recommend that if there is a paint product that has recommendations that make it difficult to clean up (instructions on side of can,) a cheap brush might be an option. It can be thrown away when the job is finished.

As far as paint sleeves go, they are available in many different size naps. They can range from 5 mm to as high as much as 40 mm. Generally, the smoother or glossier the surface you are painting, the smaller the nap. A 5 or 10 millimeter nap is recommended for doors while a 15 or 20 mil nap may be better if you are painting interior walls. For outside surfaces, a thicker nap would be advisable.

Painting outside stucco? Go with the highest nap you can find since this kind of surface will suck up whatever paint you put on it at a fast rate. If still unsure, check with your local paint dealer for the roller sleeve needed or leave it for your contractor to figure out.

Other tools you may need to prepare surfaces for paint may include scrapers, wire brushes, putty knives, sanding blocks or sand paper, caulking gun, roller tray and a brush comb.

Remember to use plastic to cover furniture and dropsheets for floors and stairs. Be careful when covering lights that have just been used while painting. Keep them covered for a minimal amount of time and never paint with a covered light that has been turned on.

Thinning/Cleanup:
Thinning is unnecessary, but if required to obtain desired application properties a small amount of clean water may be added. Never add other paints or solvents. Wash painting tools in warm soapy water immediately after use. Spray equipment should be given a final rinse with mineral spirits to prevent rusting.

Use the paint you've purchased for your project completely or dispose of it properly. Dry, empty containers may be recycled in a can recycling program. Disposal requirements are normally outlined by your community sanitation department or environmental agency. Use paints only with adequate ventilation, particularly when painting inside. Do not breathe spray mist or sanding dust. Avoid contact with eyes and prolonged or repeated contact with skin. Wear eye protection and gloves during application or sanding. A dust/particulate respirator approved by NIOSH should be worn when sanding or spraying. Close container after each use.

FIRST AID: If you experience difficulty in breathing, leave the area to obtain fresh air.

IN CASE OF SPILL - Absorb with inert material and dispose of as specified under Thinning/Cleanup.

KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN

Protect latex paints from freezing (alkyd paints will not freeze since they are not water based.)

Material Safety Data Sheets should be available on request from your paint store/dealer. Any other questions not answered here can most likely be answered by a paint contractor or by a paint store representative.